Tables are well spaced, and wood and glass room dividers provide a sense of privacy. Overhead are two massive, ornate crystal chandeliers in one corner of the room is a stack of vases and bowls and artworks under a sign that reads “all for sale.” On the walls, large, attractive pictures made of cherry wood and cork vie with four flat-screen televisions and big square windows outlined in bright pink neon. The décor is a combination of the elegant and the tacky. The restaurant consists of one large room spacious or barnlike, depending on your point of view. Golden Star, which opened in September, has Chinese owners, and the menu is weighted two to one in favor of Chinese over Japanese dishes. When did you last eat moo goo gai pan or egg foo young? Reading the menu, with whole sections dedicated to categories like moo shu and sweet and sour, is a stroll down memory lane. Nevertheless, this is a Chinese restaurant, and a classic one at that. GOLDEN STAR in Medford has a sign out front calling itself Asian fusion, and it has the requisite sushi bar in a corner of the dining room.
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